Baltic Cruise: Stockholm, Sweden


Stockholm's charming harbor
My Baltic Cruise aboard Crystal Cruises' Crystal Symphony began in Stockholm, Sweden. Departed from Newark on SAS’ non-stop flight to Stockholm. The trans-Atlantic flight leaves early (around 5pm) and arrives early the next morning. Plane was reasonably comfortable (2-4-2 configuration) and there was a personal entertainment system for each seat in all classes (but no plugs or internet access). The meal was OK (chicken in red wine sauce both coming and going) served with complimentary wine. It was an 8-hour flight made painless by taking a 4-hour Ambien immediately upon being seated, so I slept most of the way there and arrived feeling halfway decent.

While the Arlanda Express is an easy way to get into the heart of the city (and there are even less-expensive buses available), I do prefer to arrive as effortlessly as possible, so I took a taxi ($60, 30-minute ride). Happily, the Scandic Grand Central had the room ready so I could settle in and jump into the shower immediately.  I liked the room’s modern vibe and eco-features (finally — recycle bins in a hotel room!). Wandered out into the city center on a self-guided walking tour and visited Strindberg’s apartment. Had dinner at Den Glydene Freden in Gamla Stan (the restaurant was established in 1722, and their herring was amazing).
Gamla Stan, Stockholm's medieval center
Traveled by tram to the island park called Djurgärden. It’s most famous attraction is the Vasa Museum, which has a 17th-century sailing galleon with fascinating exhibits.  They said “Stench, Disease and Tedium” summed up life at sea in those days. Good for me that life at sea has greatly improved, especially on Crystal Cruises! Couldn’t resist stopping in to the Spirit Museum to see their Absolut Art Collection (Warhol, Keith Haring, etc), since I had a Stockholm Card granting me free entry to all museums, public transportation and more.  The obligatory canal cruise was a very pleasant way to experience the archipelago (Royal Canal Tour is free with Stockholm Card). The Nobel Museum was a yawn. Enjoyed a traditional smörgåsbord dinner at the Grand Hotel's Veranda Restaurant, especially the cured cod. 
Grand Hotel Stockholm
I was charmed by Stockholm. The ubiquitous lion statues evoked Venice more than their canals and bridges; but all the boats were beautiful, moored on every shore. Wandering around Gamla Stan (which was mobbed with tourists) and the city center (which was crowded with shopping Swedes) was a pleasure.  I was also surprised by the Swedish sense  of humor (a tapas place called Bar Celona, Primo Ciao Ciao serving Italian food, and a Scottish restaurant on the harbor called Loch & Quay). Last stop was for coffee and cake in the courtyard of Vete-Katten (the name of the pastry was Mjölnargårdsbulle, — see, I’m not making it up) before setting sail on the Crystal Symphony.  Click here for my photos of Stockholm.
How would you pronounce it?

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