Venice

"To spend one's mornings in still, productive analysis of the clustered shadows of the Basilica, one's afternoons anywhere, in church or campo, on canal or lagoon, and one's evenings in starlight gossip at Florian's, feeling the sea-breeze throb languidly between the two great pillars of the Piazetta and over the low black domes of the church — this, I consider, is to be as happy as is consistent with the preservation of reason."

— Henry James, "Venice: An Early Impression" (1872)

The flight arrived a few hours late so I splurged on a water taxi to the hotel (fabulous, felt like James Bond arriving in style). Hotel Cipriani is wonderful, a quiet oasis 5 minutes by boat from St Mark’s Square (complimentary hotel shuttle operates every ten minutes 24 hours a day). The “Palladio Suite” has a lagoon view from the balcony, lovely.

Immediately headed to St. Mark’s Square. Enjoyed Bellinis and lunch at Harry’s Bar, fave haunt of Hemingway (cold zucchini soup and cuttlefish salad). Dinner at Al Covo was delicious (mussels and monkfish). Between meals, I walked all over Venice enjoying the city’s charm.

Day 2 began at Rialto Bridge and the Fish Market. Ate brunch at Florian’s, which was highly recommended by Henry James, Dickens and Proust (shrimp salad with radicchio). The 24-hour vaporetto pass was a pleasant way to cruise the Grand Canal (18 euros). Ate a wonderful dinner at Osteria Antico Giardinetto (crudo platter and pumpkin gnocci with zucchini flowers and shrimp).

The tour of Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica began at 8am on Day 3. Managed to get lost in Cannaregio which completed my Venice experience. I’ll definitely come back to spend more time, but not in summer: too hot, too humid and too crowded. The billboards were disconcerting, but I suppose they must fund the restoration work somehow. Where are the famous cats of Venice?

Here are my Venice photos.

Regent's "Seven Seas Mariner" set sail at 4pm, cruising past Venice Island and Lido. Next stop is Dubrovnik, Croatia...